Unravel A Fashion Podcast

Museum at FIT and Accessories Galore with Elizabeth Way by Unravel A Fashion Podcast

In this episode, we will be talking about Edamburu hairstyle worn by Mangbetu women in the early 20th century. Also called the tumburu style, it was popularized and fetishized by fashion designers and movies. We want to thank scholar Vicky Pass for allowing us to use her research for this episode. Thumbnail: Naomi Simms in a fashion editorial, possibly Life Magazine. Photos of the hairstyle being created (@t4yana): https://www.instagram.com/p/BcGNEtPl7Wa/ Vicky Pass' posts about the hairstyle: https://www.instagram.com/p/CDXhuDuJ3VB/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CDUbLxdpjEP/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

This episode is a little different. Firstly, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Consider this an oral history of friends. Joy talks with friend of the show and scholar Johnathan Michael Square about being black in academia. They share triumphs, challenges, feelings, and advice to those wanting to pursue careers in academia. Talking PointsHow do you choose a college?, Deb Willis, NYU, FIT, UMBC, Where are the Black conservators? Image Credit: gentlemansgazette.com via Brooks Brothers Find Jonathan Michael Square: www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

In this Fashion In Focus Jasmine reveal the history of the Panama Hat which isn't from Panama Hat. The woven's hat originated and is still manufactured in Ecuador. Image credit: www.domingocarranza.com Resources: https://www.domingocarranza.com/dcpanamahatsblog/ https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/panama-hat/ https://ultrafino.com/blogs/articles/the-complete-panama-hat-history https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Panama_Hat_Trail/QNgtDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Panama+Hat&printsec=frontcover

In this Fashion In Focus Jasmine reveal the history of the Panama Hat (which is actually the Toquilla Hat) that does not originate from Panama. The woven's hat originated and is still manufactured in Ecuador. Image credit: www.domingocarranza.com Resources: https://www.domingocarranza.com/dcpanamahatsblog/ https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/panama-hat/ https://ultrafino.com/blogs/articles/the-complete-panama-hat-history https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Panama_Hat_Trail/QNgtDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Panama+Hat&printsec=frontcover

For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. This is just the teaser join our Patreon to listen to the full episode patreon.com/unravelpodcast. This episode contains adult themes and content listener discretion is advised. Theme: Chakachas - Jungle Fever Image credit: Anna Dorothea Therbusch: Portrait of Wilhelmine Encke, Countess Lichtenau Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua]j

In this FIF Jasmine discuss the history and cultural significance of the Osage wedding coat. Image credit: Image credits: ⁣Wedding Outfit, ca. 1900. Osage (Great Plains). Gift of Fred and Monte Eiserman. 95” H. C/o The Museum of Red River FB WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Coming in hot with an Unravel, After Dark sneak peak. In this episode Jasmine and Joy discuss the provocative photography of Helmut Newton. For the full episode join our Patreon. Image credit: “IMAN, Vogue October 1989 Shot by Helmut Newton Fashion Editor, Andre Leon Talley” Listen to the full episode by joining our Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Joy and Jasmine introduce a 3 part series focused on the “ideal body” in fashion. In this first episode, they discuss, analyze and dissect the ideal body in Greek and Roman art and culture. Image credit: Chris Rellas of Copylab WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Jasmine talks to Camila Straschnoy, a brand strategist, trends researcher, and storyteller about her fascinating work in trend and fashion forecasting. Tune in to discover how fashion history informs fashion’s future. Image Credit: Jeff Walton Find Cami: http://camilastraschnoy.com/ Instagram: @camistraschnoy WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba: pastichelumumba.com twitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

This episode is a little different. Firstly, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Consider this an oral history between friends. Joy talks with friend (and friend of the show) Johnathan Michael Square about being black in academia. They share triumphs, challenges, feelings, and advice to those wanting to pursue careers in academia. Talking PointsHow do you choose a college?, Deb Willis, NYU, FIT, UMBC, Where are the Black conservators? Find Jonathan Michael Square: https://www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Jasmine interviews Feyisola Adeyemi, the Nigerian-British creative director of the line Luxury by Feyi. They discuss Feyi’s journey in the fashion industry, the luxury design market in Britain, and her advice for young black designers. Find Luxury by Feyi here: Instagram: @luxurybyfeyi Website: https://luxurybyfeyi.com/ Master Class: https://www.lbfmasterclass.com/?fbclid=IwAR2YTemyOqEkvHammXshyHgbn_KIRdnrA40NtuVaoJu4vQE1vFkyZykT8Ys Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Joy @joythea chats with Jasmine @jastare about the latest exhibition, Spectrum of Fashion at The Maryland Historical Society @marylandhistory . The show "highlights the extraordinary breadth of the MdHS costume collection across four centuries and features nearly 100 examples of women’s and men’s clothing and accessories, as well as decorative arts." Join us on a fashionable escape and tune in to the latest episode. On Thursday's Unravel Weeklies (5/7) Joy will dive into the catalog. For more information on the exhibition: http://www.mdhs.org/exhibitions/spectrum-fashion-celebrating-maryland%E2%80%99s-style Exhibition Catalog: https://maryland-historical-society.shoplightspeed.com/spectrum-of-fashion-exhibition-catalogue.html Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Another Fashion In Focus episode is here! Joy talks about the bandolier belt. This was a utilitarian accessory used in battle and in cultures around the world. In the 1970s, however, there was a major case of appropriation. Sources: Anderson, Marcia. "The Ojibwe Bandolier Bag or Gashkibidaagan." In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: The United States and Canada, edited by Phyllis G. Tortora. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic, 2010. Accessed April 20, 2020. http://dx.doi.org.i.ezproxy.nypl.org/10.5040/9781847888525.EDch031715 https://mocacleveland.org/blog/%E2%80%9Cwe%E2%80%99re-involved-real-revolution%E2%80%9D / https://books.google.com/books?id=wjcDAAAAMBAJ&printsec=frontcover&hl=En&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q=bandolier&f=false Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Joy and Jasmine discuss Dior's brand of feminism under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri. In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri made feminism a part of her artist design statement. It was a huge hit but some were critical that is was diluting the message of feminism protests, the Women’s March, etc. At the time the “We Should All Be Feminists” t-shirt (seen on the left) was a huge hit and they were bought up, copied, and resold at an accelerated rate. The clothes are beautiful but white feminism is not. Dior isn’t the only designer to talk about feminism on the runway. Prabal Gurung (seen on the right) has a more intersectional approach to his aesthetics.

Kerry Bannigan is a social impact event creator, producer, and entrepreneur who curates global activations and initiatives that advocate sustainable development. Bannigan is the Founder of the Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, engaging leading global industry event stakeholders to commit to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals. She has built a career imbedded in the fashion industry and with the Conscious Fashion Campaign is ways to effect what she calls "small changes." Joy and Kerry talk about her work, implications of Covid-19, and what motivates her to do the work! More ways to engage with Kerry Bannigan: https://consciousfashioncampaign.com https://www.instagram.com/consciousfashioncampaign/ https://www.kerrybannigan.com/ https://www.instagram.com/kerrybannigan/ https://cfda.com/news/cfda-boston-consulting-group-launch-nyfw-impact-study https://www.pvblic.org/sdgmediazone WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba:pastichelumumba.comtwitter.com/PasticheLumumba Find us:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcastInstagram: @unravelpodcastTwitter: @unravelpodcastFacebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcastWaller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergalleryJasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Jasmine talks to Joy about her visit to the exhibition “Jay Jaxon: 40 Years Of Fashion Design Brilliance” at the Queens Historical Society that was curated by Rachel Fenderson. Luckily, the show is on view until December 2020 so you can see it post-pandemic. For more information about this exhibit: https://queenshistoricalsociety.org/featured/jay-jaxon-exhibition/ Guest curator, Rachel Fenderson: http://rachelfenderson.com/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

Joy talks to Jasmine about her thoughts on NYU exhibit Deborah Willis: the Closet as Archive curated by Kalia Brooks. More information on the exhibition: https://tisch.nyu.edu/photo/events/deborah-willis--the-closet-as-archive Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

This was a tough conversation to have and research. Thank you to friend and colleagues that have been following the story of Junkai Huang's Alumni runway show, February 2020. Topics: Disfunction, leadership in the design program, who got fired?, all the responses from involved parties, the timeline of events, points to learn from References: https://www.thedailybeast.com/fit-students-reveal-why-schools-racist-runway-controversy-just-opened-up-a-bigger-wound https://nypost.com/2020/02/18/fit-apologizes-for-clearly-racist-alumni-fashion-show/ https://www.instagram.com/kimberlymjenkins/ https://hellobeautiful.com/3073708/amy-lefevre-racist-junkai-huang/ https://www.notjustalabel.com/junkai https://www.instagram.com/p/BxhsNoHgYAF/ Find us: Website: www.unravelpodcast.com Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast Instagram: @unravelpodcast Twitter: @unravelpodcast Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/ Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/ Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua